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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
First, let me thank Junkman for all of the time he has spent for everyones benefit! (And yes, I'd love some feedback regarding my post from you!)
After spending a good portion of my day yesterday watching all of junkmans videos and reading through as many of these posts as I could find I wanted to post before I started buying/trying everything!
I'm looking to buy everything for the two bucket wash, claying, polishing and waxing. I've been looking around and there seems to be SO many different places to get everything I was looking for some suggestions/options on where the best kits to buy including everything. (Including some discount codes for the sponsored vendors)
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You are not going to find everything in one spot. You do want to get as much stuff as you can in as few spots as possible to save on shipping so I'm going to suggest one spot you should look and that's
Autogeek. Also, a lot of places resale some of the stuff I use so if possible, you want to go to the source when you can. You can get all of the
Grit Guard equipment from them directly and cheaper than from anyone else. Look at the prices of stuff and check around. You'll find out that some companies mark their stuff up substantially more than others.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Just a quick note on my cars and the uses if it helps to put it in perspective. I have a 07 Accord as my daily driver which is silver. This car needs some work, and I plan on starting out on this car. The other car I have is a 2012 370Z in black. It's garaged whenever it's not being driven and will stay in for a good portion of the winter.
As for my preference, I don't have a problem putting in the time but would rather do it less frequently.
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If you don't create paint damage, then you won't have to fix paint damage. How frequently you have to fix your paint is going to be determined by how you CARE for your paint. In my videos, I state all kinds of way to avoid paint damage. If you follow those preachings, you will not have to constantly repair your paint.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Some questions and then I've put a list of stuff I've planned on purchasing.
I've watched junkmans waxing video and I have some questions following that. As I said above, I don't mind spending the time but would rather do it less frequently. I guess that's leading toward a sealant rather than a wax?
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A sealant is the longest lasting type of wax that you can use. How long it last completely depends on what you expose the car to. A car in Arizona that sits in the sun all day is going to wear the wax off in a fraction of the time compared to a car garaged in SoCal. So there's no such thing as a sealant lasting an exact amount of time.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
The only thing that I thinking about was that Junkman used a different polisher/buffer than the PC. I don't have an issue buying the equiment if it's going to be useful or I don't have another good options.
Suggestions/comments are welcome on what can come after the polishing but I'd prefer not to have to wax often!
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Again, how often you will have to wax depends on what elements you expose the car to. There are sealants that must be applied with a PC. There are sealants that can be applied by hand. There are a million choices out there. All you have to do find one that you have the patience and equipment to deal with and use it. Meguiar's makes
a sealant that you can use by hand or machine. You can order it from Autogeek when you get the M105/205. Just one of many choices when it comes to sealants.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
As far as the polishing pads whats the story with the use area? You can keep using it on as much of the car is ready as long as you keep it wet with detail spray?
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I do not understand in the slightest what you are asking here.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
I've also watched junkmans video on cleaning the pads with the grit guard kit, but what can you do if you don't have that? You just have to keep rinsing it until it runs clear and then let it dry for a few days?
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Yes, you can wash them by hand until they are clean. I usually use two pads and gently rub them together.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Ok, I think my last question before my list of items! I know the big thing stressed through the videos has been to clean it once and then don't do all of the stuff that you did intially to scratch the paint up.
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That's FIX it once.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
So wash, clay, polish a few times, then seal/wax.
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Polish a few times? Do you mean polish with M105 until ALL the damage in the paint has been removed and then follow that with M205 until the paint is spit shined to perfection? If THAT'S what you mean, then yes.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
What happens after time? You're watching the paint with water on it to gauge how long the sealent/wax is lasting and reapplying it?
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That sounds like as good a plan to go with as any.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Or you're waiting until you can feel dirt following a wash with the bag test pointing you back to claying and then polishing again? (Maybe just the 205 polish if not lots of swirls)
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Why would you wait until there are a lot of swirls before you decided to fix it again? If I see ANY swirls, out comes the PC and it's getting fixed. And yes, if you paint fails the baggie test, it is time to clay.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Maybe to simplify the question for Junkman, is what is the weeklymonthly/yearly cleaning process like for your vette?
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There is no time limit to what I do or don't do. I do whatever my paint requires me to do. If I baggie test it and it fails, it gets clayed. If that is once a week or once a year, THE BAGGIE TEST dictates WHEN I will clay. Since your car does not see the same enviroment that my car see and you don't wash your car as often as I do, what my paint requires of me is going to be totally different from what your paint requires of you.
This is nothing but common sense. Don't make it rocket science by over-thinking everything. It is not that deep! See a swirl? Polish it out. Fail the baggie test, clay it out. Water no longer reacts the way it did when you first waxed it? Wax it again. It is that simple.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Of course I'm willing to just be linked more videos/posts if I've missed something or asked some questions that have already been covered.
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What you need to do is go back and watch the videos that concern paint car MULTIPLE TIMES. You will NEVER catch everything the first time through.
Watch those videos multiple times.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
I'm putting the list below to make sure I'm not missing anything, plus it might be useful for everyone!
Washing:
Gilmour 75QGF4 foam master
DP's extreme foam formula
Some type of car wash -> Recommendations on individual if not with a kit?
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Meguiar's makes a car shampoo under their Detailers line.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
2 x 5gal buckets
2 x grit guards
2 x wash mits -> Any recommendations on brands/type for this? Are they generally MF?
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The same exact
wash mitts that I use and talk about in my 2-bucket wash videos.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Clay -> Polishing:
Any type of clay
Garry Deans Detail juice (I think only available on their website) ->
Infinite Use Detail Juice Concentrate V2 16oz - Premium Custom Detailing
PC 7424XP 5" (I'll get the special extension cord after)
Meguirs M105 and M205
3pk of zaino borderless blonde
2 x waffle weave MF towels -> Brand recommendations? Adams I see has some but wondering if there is any other deals
or kits that include them
2 x hex logic orange pads
3 x hex login white pads |
You can get the Hex-Logic pads at Chemical Guys. Again, this is why you need to watch my videos multiple times. I cover way too much stuff for you to remember after only watching them once.
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Originally Posted by Mulletsays
Wax:
This will depend more on the questions from above!
(Is it just easy to go with Adams for anything I didn't specify?)
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I say where to buy everything in my videos. So have I mentioned already that you can't remember everything after only watching my videos once?
