First off, I used most of
The Hack's DIY
DIY: B&M 45163 short shift kit in 370Z
to do the install and I apologize for my shitty camera as some of the pic's are a little bright or out of focus
Tools required:
Socket wrench and sockets (10mm socket in particular)
Assembly Lubricant
Loctite (not required but if you're conscious about potnential shift knob movement over time, then go ahead and dab some on; it's pretty cheap to purchase anyway)
Phillips head screwdriver
I rented a lift which was paid by the hour, so I couldn't take as many pictures as I'd wanted and I was in a hurry to get the shifter installed.
Here are some before shots:
For the most part you can follow
The Hack's install procedures.
Lift up on the center leather console and unplug the SRM module
*Referencing
The Hack's pics*
Unplug SRM module
Remove these screws to take off the side panels of the center console
Remove the 10mm bolts to the rear of the console. I forgot to take pictures of this but it's pretty easy to access; Simply move the seats forward and the 10mm bolts are in plain view and easy to access.
Once you have the center console loose, you can gain access to unscrew the rear 10 mm bolts holding the plastic shift plate in place. There are 4 10mm bolts total, and the 2 in front are easy to reach w/out moving around the center console; the rear requires you to loosen the center console as The Hack mentions.
*referencing
The Hack's Picture*
Once you can see the big plastic plate, remember the arrow is pointed towards your stereo
Here's a shot of the 5 pointed metal shifter plate:
Shot of the layers of shift boots
When you are unscrewing the 3 10mm bolts on the 5 point plate, remember there is a spring underneath so hold onto the plate as you are unscrewing the last screw
Underneath the car, here is a shot of the rubber boot that covers the shift linkage to the shifter (you can easily get it out of the way; no clips or anything attached)
Here's some shots of the rubber boot moved to the side
Once you have the shifter unscrewed from the shift linkage, you can take the assembly and use a vise or a c clamp. I ended up using a vise since it was available. But a C clamp will also suffice.
I tried to stick the bottom end of the shifter on the vise and twist the shift knob by hand; needless to say it was a fruitless effort and I ended up wrapping the shift knob with a towel and put the shift knob end on the vise and twisted the shifter using a Phillips screwdriver as leverage through the hole in the shifter.
*Referencing
The Hack's DIY for a picture for an exmaple*
Here are some shots of the unscathed shift knob (it's pretty easy to loosen the shift knob on a vice w/out scuffing up or damaging your shift knob)
Here is a comparison shot of the stock and AMS shifters:
Once you have the shifter unscrewed from the shift linkage underneath the car, you can go ahead and slide out all the layers of boots including the shifter out of the console and replace with the new AMS shifter.
At this point, use some assembly lubricant and lube up the shift joints on the big white plastic cushion. Go ahead and align the shifter in place and put the 5 point plate on top. Remember to keep the shifter aligned so that the little knob on one side is pointed "right" as this is your Reverse lockout feature. The "knob" is located above the white plastic cushion and below the bulky black portion:
Once you have the AMS shifter in place, go ahead and screw in the 3 10mm bolts for the 5 point plate. Do not tighten bolts at this time yet but just keep them in; Go back underneath the vehicle and screw on the bolt connecting the shifter to the shift linkage. Once completed, shift through each gear making sure every shift is unobstructed and has free movement.
Put all the layers of boots back in place in reverse order. I'd recommend aligning the boots together then putting the screws in, and THEN putting it all together to align with the holes on the center console. Makes installing/aligning the boots that much easier.
Remember to re-connect the SRM module and re-clip any clips from the console pieces as necessary.
Go ahead and put a little dab of loctite on the shifter to avoid shift knob movement;*I would suggest screwing in your shift knob first to ensure that the shift knob and shift boot align properly first*
Finally, some installed shots (Didn't have time to clean up, and you may want to use a towel around your work area to avoid scratching up your interior console pieces like I ended up doing unintentionally
Impressions:
1. Shift knob is exactly as Dustin said: about 33% shorter throw. It's a good solid feel with no vibration.
2. I went on the highway to see if there was any high rpm vibration. No difference in vibration as the OEM shifter; In this case I'm assuming it's a huge difference compared to the B&M. (I don't have any experience with the B&M) And the throws were smooth.
3. Definitely looks a lot better than before and everything sits flush
4. No grinding down of a separate plate on top of the OEM 5 point plate required. All original OEM bolts and plates are used with this installation minimizing the need for additional material (IE serrated lock nuts to keep B&M blue plate in place with the OEM 5 point plate)
5. Cheaper than B&M kit
Overall installation difficulty 1-5; 1 being super easy and 5 being super hard, I'd rate this installation as a 2.
Keep in mind I had access to a lift and all the tools necessary.
Good luck all and have fun.