View Single Post
Old 10-09-2012, 01:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
L33T Z34
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ahnald, MO
Age: 47
Posts: 387
Drives: 09 K51 G C Bw/S 6MT
Rep Power: 0
L33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant futureL33T Z34 has a brilliant future
Send a message via Yahoo to L33T Z34
Post DIY: EVAP Removal

NOTICE!

Perform this modification at your own risk. This modification is for "off road" use only. The EVAP canister is a required emissions component on vehicles where it was originally equipped. You will receive TWO SES light warnings (P0447 & P0452) when the EVAP canister solenoids are removed!* Your ECU will also not pass an OBD2 "plug in" inspection.* Your Z will certainly not pass a visual emissions inspection if your state/county so requires.

Pros
1) Removes about 2.5 lbs of plastic from under your Z (weight reduction).
2) Simplifies the vacuum system in your Z (less potential for leaks).
3) Increases clearance for numerous aftermarket exhaust mufflers (right side).

Cons
1) May not pass OBD2 inspections.
2) May smell gas fumes in enclosed spaces.

Now let’s get started, shall we?

1) Remove the two L-shaped 8mm OEM vacuum hoses (14912-JK20B, hose, fuel vapor control) from the intake plenum and EVAP pipe (see photo attachment, red Xs). Plug the nipples and pipe ends with custom made 6mm silicone hose caps. I create my own vacuum caps using silicone hose with a bolt epoxied to one end to form an air tight seal. Looks a little ghetto, but will last WAY longer than the cheap CHINESE rubber vacuum caps you find at your local CHINESE knock off auto parts store. Use the OEM hose clamps (01558-00411) to secure your silicone vacuum caps.

To the REAR!

2) Disconnect the three hoses that run to the EVAP can at the EVAP can nipples. Also disconnect the EVAP can pressure sensor and vent control valve.

3) Push EVAP can wiring harness grommet into hatch area. Remove sensors from EVAP can.

4) Unbolt the three bolts (12mm) that secure the EVAP can to the chassis. Remove EVAP can and discard, sell or make an interesting paperweight/doorstop. Vent hose and vent control valve can also be discarded at this time.

5) Hack OEM gas tank vent hose (17226-CE800) to appropriate length and stick K&N crank case breather 62-1020 into one end. Secure K&N crank case breather to OEM vent hose w/ OEM clamp (16439-V500B).

6) Hack OEM intake vacuum hose (17335-CE800) to appropriate length and plug w/1/4" pipe plug acquired from local Home Depot. Secure plug w/epoxy and OEM clamp (16439-42L0A).

7) Roll up and secure EVAP wiring harness in hatch area. You can leave the sensors plugged into the wiring harness to possibly prevent a SES light. I removed my sensors and taped up my connectors w/electrical tape. Fill 40mm hole in hatch area using OEM Nissan rubber plug (01658-00441). Also at this time, you may want to check your other hatch drain rubber plug that is 35mm diameter. If it has a gooey residue under it, this means it is starting to deteriorate. It can be replaced using Nissan OEM part number, (01658-00951), plug, rear floor.

That's it. All Done!
Comments and critiques are welcome.

*Note
To pass emissions testing w/EVAP can equipment removed, you must have your ECU reflashed. I patiently await the day open source tuning is available for the Z34.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FairLady EVAP Intake anno.jpg (184.0 KB, 520 views)
File Type: jpg FairLady EVAP can anno.jpg (154.3 KB, 604 views)

Last edited by L33T Z34; 09-22-2013 at 11:38 AM. Reason: added codes
L33T Z34 is offline   Reply With Quote