View Single Post
Old 09-04-2012, 11:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
osbornsm
A True Z Fanatic
 
osbornsm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: WHAT
Posts: 2,551
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE
Rep Power: 424
osbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond reputeosbornsm has a reputation beyond repute
Exclamation Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

For any of you who have questions about what to do for your first HPDE / Track Day, please read the following:
----------------------------------------------------------
Brakes
  • The OEM pads will technically function for a track day... but for the love of god just buy Carbotech pads from Z1 Motorsports.
  • Recommendation:
    • Front: Carbotech XP10
    • Rear: Carbotech XP8
  • NOTE: I ran with Front XP8 pads... the OEM Rear pads were down to the backing plate after 1/2 day of lapping. I.E. get rear track pads.
----------------------------------------------------------
Brake Fluid
  • You must Must MUST, flush your entire brake system with nothing other than Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
  • MISTAKE: I used Superblue fluid and it boiled on my 1st track day (pedal to the floor / scared to death / don't use it!!!)
----------------------------------------------------------
Tires
  • The OEM tires are great for beginner / intermediate track drivers.
  • Start all 4 tires at approx ~ 32 psi (cold temp)
  • Hot temperature, measured when JUST off a session, should be closer to 38 psi
----------------------------------------------------------
Suspension
  • It ain't broken... don't fix it.
  • The OEM suspension is FINE unless you plan on ONLY tracking your car
  • You do not need extra camber in the front or rear.
  • My tires wore evenly with the stock alignment, not to mention that they didn't wear that much. GO Bridgestones!
----------------------------------------------------------
Interior
  • Remove anything that isn't bolted down. Spare tire, rear tools, floor mats, goodies from center console and glove box, EVERYTHING.
----------------------------------------------------------
Engine
  • An oil cooler is REQUIRED, unless you want to try out limp-mode. My 25 row Z1 oil cooler worked perfectly and I didn't "hold back" at all when on the track. 20 min sessions Ambient temp = 80f Max Oil Temp = 240f
----------------------------------------------------------
After EACH run
  1. Park the car
    • Don't set the parking brake.
    • The brake pads will fuse themselves to a hot rotor
    • Don't set the parking brake.
  2. Pop the hood (helps engine cool down)
  3. Check tire pressures
    • Tire Pressure can increase +10psi just from the heat.
    • Make sure the tire pressure is measured RIGHT after you park the car for the most accurate reading.
    • Wear gloves when checking tire pressures, my valve stem cap melted a little from the brake heat. H O T.
    • I tried to keep a max pressure of 40psi.
    • Others: feel free to chime in here for ideal hot pressures.
  4. Fill up your gas tank after each run.
    • YES, after each one.
    • You will get fuel starvation in right hand turns otherwise.
----------------------------------------------------------

Wear Items to inspect from track duty

Brake Pads
- Q: Do I have enough brake pad for this track day?
- A: If the backing plate of the brake pad is "thicker" than the remaining pad material = Buy new brake pads.
  • Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
  • Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years
  • Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons.
  • You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed
  • Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well
  • Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub
  • Check state of front and rear wheel bearings
  • Check state of ball joints in front suspension
  • Check steering tie rod ends
  • Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs
  • Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear
  • Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts
  • Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage
  • Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff)


Your thoughts are welcome, and will be incorporated into this thread, should i find them worthy :-)
__________________
2018 Camaro SS 1LE (455hp) - 2011 Nissan 370z (333hp) - 2004 VW R32 (240hp) - 2000 Civic Si (160hp)

Last edited by osbornsm; 09-10-2015 at 03:03 PM.
osbornsm is offline   Reply With Quote