For any of you who have questions about what to do for your first HPDE / Track Day, please read the following:
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Brakes- The OEM pads will technically function for a track day... but for the love of god just buy Carbotech pads from Z1 Motorsports.
- Recommendation:
- Front: Carbotech XP10
- Rear: Carbotech XP8
- NOTE: I ran with Front XP8 pads... the OEM Rear pads were down to the backing plate after 1/2 day of lapping. I.E. get rear track pads.
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Brake Fluid- You must Must MUST, flush your entire brake system with nothing other than Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
- MISTAKE: I used Superblue fluid and it boiled on my 1st track day (pedal to the floor / scared to death / don't use it!!!)
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Tires- The OEM tires are great for beginner / intermediate track drivers.
- Start all 4 tires at approx ~ 32 psi (cold temp)
- Hot temperature, measured when JUST off a session, should be closer to 38 psi
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Suspension- It ain't broken... don't fix it.
- The OEM suspension is FINE unless you plan on ONLY tracking your car
- You do not need extra camber in the front or rear.
- My tires wore evenly with the stock alignment, not to mention that they didn't wear that much. GO Bridgestones!
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Interior- Remove anything that isn't bolted down. Spare tire, rear tools, floor mats, goodies from center console and glove box, EVERYTHING.
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Engine- An oil cooler is REQUIRED, unless you want to try out limp-mode. My 25 row Z1 oil cooler worked perfectly and I didn't "hold back" at all when on the track. 20 min sessions Ambient temp = 80f Max Oil Temp = 240f
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After EACH run - Park the car
- Don't set the parking brake.
- The brake pads will fuse themselves to a hot rotor
- Don't set the parking brake.
- Pop the hood (helps engine cool down)
- Check tire pressures
- Tire Pressure can increase +10psi just from the heat.
- Make sure the tire pressure is measured RIGHT after you park the car for the most accurate reading.
- Wear gloves when checking tire pressures, my valve stem cap melted a little from the brake heat. H O T.
- I tried to keep a max pressure of 40psi.
- Others: feel free to chime in here for ideal hot pressures.
- Fill up your gas tank after each run.
- YES, after each one.
- You will get fuel starvation in right hand turns otherwise.
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Wear Items to inspect from track duty
Brake Pads
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Q: Do I have enough brake pad for this track day?
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A: If the backing plate of the brake pad is "thicker" than the remaining pad material =
Buy new brake pads.
- Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
- Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years
- Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons.
- You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed
- Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well
- Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub
- Check state of front and rear wheel bearings
- Check state of ball joints in front suspension
- Check steering tie rod ends
- Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs
- Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear
- Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts
- Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage
- Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff)
Your thoughts are welcome, and will be incorporated into this thread, should i find them worthy :-)