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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks
If you drive the car fairly hard I would change it after 2-3 track events. Street driving is far less demanding, so about 5000 miles of street. I've used Motul, Redline and even Royal Purple in the rear end. I was using 80W90 but have switched to 75W140 to maintain viscosity at higher temps.
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Thanks I am going to put 75w140 in today then.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks
COMSCC? What car class are you registered for? Mosport is a heavy throttle use track so you'll want the most cooling you can get. Wish I was going.
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Ontario Time Attack Series (OTA). I am in the GT1 class. Yeah I have been going to mosport on and off now for about 20 years. It is by far my favorite track. This is the first time with the 370z. My previous cars were a gt3 and a c6 z06 and a long time ago - miata
I think the track record in gt1 is in the 1:35 range, so we will see how I do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks
Are you sure? That seems unlikely that you are overheating the rears. Have you used temperature paint to see what rotor temps you have? I had ABS locking up the rear wheels very easily when I used the same compound all around, maybe you could jump up to XP16 if you are running on R-comp tires.
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Yeah, I am sure
. This was happening on a fairly small technical track (Toronto Motorsport Track) with not much time for cooling brakes. When I had the x12 on the front and x10 on the back the balance was ok at the beginning of the run, but towards the end of the run the front tires would lock up too easily because the rears were no longer applying enough braking force.
I happened to have some x10 front's so I put those on and the car maintained a better braking balance through the run, but I could not brake as hard without feeling the front brakes give up towards the end of the the braking zone at the end of the longest straight.
I use to run x12/x10 on my c6 z06 without any issues, but that car is lighter than the 370z and it does have brake cooling vents for the rear.
I created my own brake ducting for the 370 because the stillen kit was not available at the beginning of the season. I will be ordering the stillen kit just to get the mounting plate for the rotor so that the hose will pump air more towards the center of the rotor. The solution I created involved cutting a hole in the dust cover and riveting a flange to it. But the air is pushed more on the outer portion of the rotor than the center.