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Originally Posted by LafitteZ
I had the kit installed at z1 and the day I picked it up we started to have this problem. If at idle or slowly driving around like in traffic if the temperature outside gets hot the ac starts to blow hot air and the compressor doesnt seem to kick on like normal. I have a 34 row oil cooler and vis vented hood and we took the drip pans off so the vents were open and it seemed to help but that was in georgia and winter began right after that. Well ive since installed a csf radiator trying to prepare for the heat and humidity down here in NEW ORLEANS. Well the outside temps are in the 100 range and the ac is blowing hot a heck. The oil and water temps are even better then stock. Theres enough freon in the system so theres no leak or leaks so I dont know what else too do? Any ideas?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
I didn't really ask. I just know they are in spec.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
When it starts if I idle with the hood up it warms up but the compressor stays on. Once I start to roll or idle with the hood down it kicks off. At night or once it cools down outside it blows cold as ice.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
I really dont think its the freon. My car did it before and now after a csf radiator. I wonder if theres some kind of thermostat or something thats reading the temps extremely high and kicking the compressor off? When its about 100 degrees out side my outside temp gauge reads like 110. Not sure if it has anything to do with it but just an idea.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
Yep exactly. Its too hot and humid for this in louisiana. I even have a vented hood and aftermarket radiator and oil cooler and its still doing it. As long as im driving theres no problem. I try to drive around the mall or light traffic or anything like that then it blows hot. I can even hear the compressor not on because my idle is really low. When the compressor kicks on the idle usually kicks up a few rpms.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
they must be on because the water temps are way down and stabilized.
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Originally Posted by LafitteZ
wonder if it may need high output fans? Or mabe some kind of vents from the bottom of the car if its possible?
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Originally Posted by LafitteZ
Yea they certainly don't like the heat. What about putting a larger single fan in front of the radiator or mabe behind the intercooler? Man I have to get this fixed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
Y'all are missing the point. The oil temps and water temps are better then stock. For instance 200 degree oil temp and water temp 3 dots left from the center and sitting in traffic the ac blows hot air. As soon as you going it still takes a few seconds before it starts to be cold again.
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Originally Posted by LafitteZ
And most of us with the problem is with turbo set ups. Thanks for the links tho. Anything helps.
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Originally Posted by LafitteZ
Talked to rob at z1. We are going to make a colder temp water thermostat. We're also going to take a mishimoto fan shroud and put some super high output fans. Didnt realize the fans on the vhr is the same on the de. They are crap.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
Yea mishimoto thermostats are garbage so were going to use a nismo thermostat from the de 350z. We're going to use the fan shroud from the mishi Moto kit but were going to cut the holes to fit bigger fans and were going to use I think the name is sprall fans. One fan puts out twice as much cfm as both of our factory fans together. A bigger radiator may be a good fix but I already put a csf radiator and the temps are good with water and oil we need to get the air to start flowing to get the hot air between the intercooler and condenser moving while at idle.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LafitteZ
Gtm sells the remedy but they blow the price up like crazy. They sell the shroud and fan set up.
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Man, you are all over the place. I don't get you. You start a thread asking for help and we make a suggestion to try and figure out what is going on with the car and you come back with everything under the sun without diagnosing the problem. If you want to throw parts at the car without knowing the cause and the correction for the problem, be my guest. I can assure you that there is no connection between your A/C shutting off and having a twin turbo kit on the car.
Prime example right here:
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Originally Posted by SS_Firehawk
I'm having this exact issue and am taking it in to the dealership to have it looked at. It will blow hot if I'm waiting at an on-ramp light, when I accelerate, or if I leave it sit for a few minutes. It takes me five minutes fighting with it until it starts working again. Yesterday was over 110 and it was a nightmare. My oil temps stabilized at about 190-195 driving around and would get to about 215-220 idling. Water "dots" didn't move. I didn't feel like pulling out Cipher to log the exact temps. It is occurring more often when it's warmer.
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This guy has an NA setup and no turbo kit, yet is experiencing the exact same problem. How do you explain that?
The reason why I asked you to check the refrigerant high and low pressure is not to find out whether or not you have enough freon, but to really get a good idea of how the system is operating mechanically.
If you go to the doctor and you are feeling dizzy, what is the first thing they check? Your blood pressure!!!!! Checking the refrigerant pressure is the exact same thing. It has nothing to do with how much refrigerant there is. In fact, sometimes, having too much will cause problems. The pressure differential between the high and low sides must be within a certain range. If the pressures are out of spec, then there is a problem. Remember, the pressure is going to be related to the ambient temperature.
Once we are done with AC 101 basic testing, then we can move forward. If your AC high side pressure is higher than normal, then the factory ECU will shut down the system due to excessive pressure to protect the system. If your low side is too low, then the system will also shut off the AC. If your pressures are perfectly normal according to the ambient temperature you are in, then there could be a mechanical issue. Also, if your system has been disconnected for the radiator replacement or a turbo install, and the system was not vacuumed out, then that will kill your AC performance because moisture in the system will cause major problems. That's why you have a receiver dryer to keep the refrigerant free of moisture.
So, throwing parts at the car is not the answer. Get it diagnosed correctly. The stock system is tiny and it doesn't take much for it to go out of range if there is a problem. The Stock fans are perfectly fine and more than capable of doing the job...especially for a daily driver.