View Single Post
Old 06-14-2012, 02:05 PM   #42 (permalink)
Red__Zed
A True Z Fanatic
 
Red__Zed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: window seat
Posts: 28,940
Drives: Mostly on two wheels
Rep Power: 120
Red__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond reputeRed__Zed has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by supunna_picta View Post
PDR is the way to go but get opinions on reputable shops first. Generally they try to get behind the dent and massage it out so access to the dent is the time consuming part and where you want a reputable shop so they put body panels, trim and interior components back together they way they should go. The majority of the cost there is time, despite the tons of special tools they have to reach up through narrow spaces to get behind a dent.

For those places they can't get behind the dent they use a hot glue method that works really well - essentially they use various sized disks that they glue to the dent and they slid a spring loaded puller over the disk and 'pop' the disk off the car, which pulls the dent. Then they massage the extrusion (extremely small) down flush. That method takes about 1 minute per dent but is not usable if the dent is 'sharp' and might cause the paint to come off.

The tech did mention that aluminum was a lot harder to work with.

I had an MR2 Spyder with significant hail damage to every body panel (probably at least 50 dents) and the end cost was about $2500.

GL - sorry to hear about it.
Good tips.


Unk, sorry to hear. Hail is a real downer.
Red__Zed is offline   Reply With Quote