aha...I was right (wife and I were trying to figure the puppy pic out. We have a pom and a pom/poodle/possibly maltese mutt). Back to cars...
Rotors are a bit thinner then past years sure, but without a micrometer its hard to accurately assess the run out. A true warping (where the iron of the rotor is no longer parallel in regards to the brake pad surface) would be extremely obvious with high rotational speeds when braking. This is why I quietly raise the BS flag when a few general techs in the past have said 'your rotors are out of spec' but they never put the measured diameter nor the limit (from the factory service manual) on the work order.
PA state inspection centers are notorious for trying to suggest work every year. I hate this state's DMV....
You will see many debates about new brake pads must have a turned rotor (clean surface) vs. the exact opposite. Its kind of like oil type discussions, there is no clear right way.
Having done it both ways in the past, and previously tracked a few cars my personal experience its to continue with Stoptech's style of advice and be sure to get the rotors up to temp to scrub off crap. I have no issues putting new pads on existing unturned rotors. I just break them in immediately with 8-10 hard stops from 40-60 MPH and enjoy the lovely smell.
This is not as necessary with more aggressive compounds I have used. But those compounds also tend to wear more metal from the rotors (as seen by wear over 40-50K miles of use. I recently used Hawk HP (instead of HPS) and while they stopped great, they wore brembo replacement rotors far quicker then other pads I had used on the WRX).
Low noise low dust pads tend to be more organic based and in my experience easier to leave deposits. I don't have enough miles on the Z to see how these pads are. Whatever they are, they are going back on the car when they wear out: very happy with feel.
- b
|