Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan
fritz- the two types are hub-centric and lug-centric.
factory wheels are hub-centric and therefore uses the flat washer type lugs. this means that the hub keeps the wheel center, the lugs just keeps the wheels and hub together.
aftermarket wheels are usually lug-centric and therefore uses the tapered type lugs. this means the lugs hold the wheels center, not the hub. centering rings are used to aid the installation of the wheels to the hub. the rings are not required.
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Hola kenchan! (Good and bad news)
I beg to disagree: If there's a hub with a centre and a wheel with a centre
use 'em. MOST alloy wheels use taper seat lug nuts and must have centering on the hubs...except trucks or show cars.
Holes in the hub (or spacer) to fit studs are a relative afterthought. Threading those holes is another afterthought and the threads on the studs are more "afterthoughts" and the taper seats in the wheels.....ditto....all of which give margins for compounded errors....further compoundable by the wheel manufacturer's own holes before adding the seats.
Now, let that lot onto the ground, even lightly, to tighten them (per many an owners maual) and you have guaranteed ovality.
Don't think the studs are "solid steel". They aren't. They are elastic enough to twist or bend.
No, Sir, I do not buy this Bolt Centric or Hub Centric "deal" on any aftermarket car wheel fixed on the car in any way (centerlockers apart).
...and I emphatically say "trust not the artist selling the wheels unless...etc".
Trucks with many bolts or studs, OK.
You may "get lucky", especially if you drive legally and never see a circuit.
Hub...and wheel....manufacturer(s) will use lathe centering and there's no likelyhood of them being off centre..even if there's a tea-break.
Example: you buy a set of good wheels (Rays? ...er....from Rays, not an "outfit") specifically for a 370Z and they'll give you 66.1 centres.....for a very good reason. Same for OE stock 350Z wheels with taperseat nuts.
Bolt in spacers ... warning again, may be a sloppy fit. The difference per
corner is set. That is 0.1mm......and not a loose multiple thereof.
Good news? When confronted with my immobilized car I was arming myself with a dremmel and other odd tools, while lying on my back, to undo the "thiefproof" bolts holding the lock...but checked this site...and there was kenchan's statement that they come out easily with a pair of pliers....So thanks a lot again, kenchan.
So there,
You have two bits of advice from two folk of equal enthusiasm and help
Take your choice...as long as neither of us are in the wheel and tire shifting biz !
Fritz