I have pontificated upon this elsewhere but maybe not so comprehensively!
"Stud Centric" or "Bolt Centric" applied to car wheels are both salesmen's guff for the bill of goods you'll get.
Car wheels must be Hub Centric. The Nissan hub is 66.0 (minus nothing and plus a thou or so) mm and the wheels are 66.1mm for a "perfect fit" (The wheels seem a mite tight on the hub).......Nissan did not do that so some nitwit could b/s you.
Stick to that and you'll have no balance problems.
Offer the spacers up to the wheels. They should be a snug fit with no lateral play at all
and maybe just a bit stiff to turn smoothly. (NOT a snug fit on the studs but the hub).
Bolt in spacers (even name ones) are often a sloppy fit and must be centred accurately before the spacer bolts are tightened. "No need for that" ?...Like fun.
Perfect fit spigot rings can do the job too. If plastic they must emphatically never have wheels tightened or loosened on the ground (see later).
[One may even need a shim wrapped around the hub. (Note: M-B sold some new vehicles with very sloppily centered wheels: I believe the German Police got a recall but common folk did not. A 13 thou shim wrapped at each hub centre gives revolutionary peace at high speeds].
Start with a proper wheel on a proper hub and, by fitting 2nd class spacers, you build in
wheel and tire ovality for which you will blame the wheel balancer!
Ride comfort goes to pot, suspension/steering wears quicker, emergency braking is unsure, and anything half fast or illegal might bring on the shakes.
And another thing: tighten the wheels off the ground: final torque with the tire just touching the ground and not firmly planted. Be fussy and save yourself drama.
"On car balancing" sounds hot. It is a crude way round some, but not all, of this drama...until the wheel is removed for any reason, like a brake check.
Rely on no-one other than you or a known decent mechanic...unlikely found at a wheel installers "shifting product" on commission....but possible.
Fritz.
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