Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

esfourteen · 04-11-2012, 10:47 AM

These first set of pictures are unfortunately horrible quality because I forgot to check the "high quality" option when uploading to facebook, epic fail =(

Ready for the install

Twins!

Lots of parts

Removing the exhaust housings for ceramic coating

Parts going to the ceramic coater

Pump, relay, injectors and plugs

Fuel Pump assembly

Stock pump and walbro with install kit

Ready to go back in

Time to swap the injectors, intake manifold and injector rail removed

Stock injectors

Bosch injectors installed, NOTE: when you install these injectors the plug adapters must all be on the OUTSIDE of the rail, if they are on the inside they will touch the runners and could lead to failure with vibrations over time.

HKS spark plugs, for when you need some baller spark

Removing the stock exhaust manifolds, this was one of those parts that wasn't fun...

As you can see the passenger side has MUCH more room, it appears that the engine sits slightly closer towards the driver side

Another one of the more difficult parts, drilling and tapping the passenger cylinder head. The best way to do this is using a 90 deg air drill, or a 90 deg chuck adapter if you don't have access to air tools.

Patience is key here, you will be drilling on your back reaching up into this area, it looks like theres a lot of room but you need to reach over the aluminum subframe and steering rack, you forearms will be angry with you in the end.

You can see the 2 blank spots that need to be drilled/tapped on the last cylinder port here

I had to cut about 1" off each drill bit in order for the drill to clear the firewall, the guide GTM provides makes the drilling part pretty simple, its hard to fcuk this up. Drilling aluminum doesn't take a lot of effort, but make sure you use some wd-40 or other metal cutting lubrication so your bits last.

This is the part you need to be careful doing, screwing this up is not an option. I found it was best to tap the threads from above, again use wd-40 or similar lubricant. Be sure to check your angle of the tap as you start threading it in.

Testing the new threads, great success!

Now I decided to do the motor mount spacers, this turned out to backfire slightly. NOTE: If you space the engine before installing the manifolds you will have to remove the bottom rear stud on the driver side in order to get the manifold to fit, then re-install the stud after. It wasn't that big of a deal but i was scratching my head for about 15 minutes trying to fit the damn thing.

Just a shot of the car in pieces

I chose to install an AAM oil pan spacer instead of drilling/tapping the upper oil pan. This gives an extra quart of capacity and also has built in turbo oil return ports. NOTE: The steel oil pan will sit slightly lower than the front cross beam and steering rack, for some this is a deal breaker but I don't slam my cars so I am not as worried.

Pickup tube spacer

I RTV'd the adapter to the pan first and then immediately installed onto the upper pan, you dont want to wait too long as the RTV will start drying and you will not get a good seal.

I finally got my exhaust components back from ceramic coating, the coating is good for 2000F. Ceramic coating helps reduce engine bay temps and decrease spool time by increasing exhaust enthalpy (hotter exhaust gas flows faster).

Test fitting the actuators after clocking the turbos, NOTE: the actuators/brackets need to be installed AFTER the turbos are mounted.

Due to the angle at which the actuators sit, you need to bend the actuator arm tip slightly for proper function

Driver side manifold installed

Passenger side manifold installed

Passenger turbo installed, NOTE: you cannot install the coolant outlet bajo fitting or oil return tube until the turbo is installed.

Thats all for now!

04-11-2012, 10:47 AM	#2 (permalink)
esfourteen A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: LI, NY Posts: 1,375 Drives: 40th TT Rep Power: 18	These first set of pictures are unfortunately horrible quality because I forgot to check the "high quality" option when uploading to facebook, epic fail =( Ready for the install Twins! Lots of parts Removing the exhaust housings for ceramic coating Parts going to the ceramic coater Pump, relay, injectors and plugs Fuel Pump assembly Stock pump and walbro with install kit Ready to go back in Time to swap the injectors, intake manifold and injector rail removed Stock injectors Bosch injectors installed, NOTE: when you install these injectors the plug adapters must all be on the OUTSIDE of the rail, if they are on the inside they will touch the runners and could lead to failure with vibrations over time. HKS spark plugs, for when you need some baller spark Removing the stock exhaust manifolds, this was one of those parts that wasn't fun... As you can see the passenger side has MUCH more room, it appears that the engine sits slightly closer towards the driver side Another one of the more difficult parts, drilling and tapping the passenger cylinder head. The best way to do this is using a 90 deg air drill, or a 90 deg chuck adapter if you don't have access to air tools. Patience is key here, you will be drilling on your back reaching up into this area, it looks like theres a lot of room but you need to reach over the aluminum subframe and steering rack, you forearms will be angry with you in the end. You can see the 2 blank spots that need to be drilled/tapped on the last cylinder port here I had to cut about 1" off each drill bit in order for the drill to clear the firewall, the guide GTM provides makes the drilling part pretty simple, its hard to fcuk this up. Drilling aluminum doesn't take a lot of effort, but make sure you use some wd-40 or other metal cutting lubrication so your bits last. This is the part you need to be careful doing, screwing this up is not an option. I found it was best to tap the threads from above, again use wd-40 or similar lubricant. Be sure to check your angle of the tap as you start threading it in. Testing the new threads, great success! Now I decided to do the motor mount spacers, this turned out to backfire slightly. NOTE: If you space the engine before installing the manifolds you will have to remove the bottom rear stud on the driver side in order to get the manifold to fit, then re-install the stud after. It wasn't that big of a deal but i was scratching my head for about 15 minutes trying to fit the damn thing. Just a shot of the car in pieces I chose to install an AAM oil pan spacer instead of drilling/tapping the upper oil pan. This gives an extra quart of capacity and also has built in turbo oil return ports. NOTE: The steel oil pan will sit slightly lower than the front cross beam and steering rack, for some this is a deal breaker but I don't slam my cars so I am not as worried. Pickup tube spacer I RTV'd the adapter to the pan first and then immediately installed onto the upper pan, you dont want to wait too long as the RTV will start drying and you will not get a good seal. I finally got my exhaust components back from ceramic coating, the coating is good for 2000F. Ceramic coating helps reduce engine bay temps and decrease spool time by increasing exhaust enthalpy (hotter exhaust gas flows faster). Test fitting the actuators after clocking the turbos, NOTE: the actuators/brackets need to be installed AFTER the turbos are mounted. Due to the angle at which the actuators sit, you need to bend the actuator arm tip slightly for proper function Driver side manifold installed Passenger side manifold installed Passenger turbo installed, NOTE: you cannot install the coolant outlet bajo fitting or oil return tube until the turbo is installed. Thats all for now! __________________ Build Thread \| GTM TT Install Thread \| Engine Build Thread Last edited by esfourteen; 12-11-2012 at 10:14 PM.