fritz

Undo the cable tie for the lock harness: you'll need the length later.
Remove the lock (See Kenchan's script ---it's easy).
Tape over the greasy gap in the steering column.
The lock has 4 depressions each with two indents.
Drill each indent 2 mm deep and no more, with a 3/8" drill bit.
Connect each pair of indent centers by Dremmel type cutter or hacksaw.
The lock body is double layered. cut through one layer (2 mm max)!
Lift/bend off the 4 resulting plates.
Prise up and off the "free fall" cover (it's big internally).
Undo 2 screws holding the circuit board.
Lift off the circuit board VERY carefully and evenly.
The board must not be distorted in any way or it will break invisibly.
Pull off the electric motor if it is attached. (It just pulls off, evenly).
Ignore the sliding plastic (with magnet attached).
Clean grease with Q tips only. No detergent/alcohol/etc.
There's two "sensor" microswitches on the board.
Very gently push the "tits" in (2.5mm max) and release. Repeat often.
The board, with "tits" pushed 1.8-2.2mm, to be fitted in an eyeglass case.
(An eyeglass case will tuck away without screws, near the key port)
Note that to secure the board the 2 screw head ODs must be small.
Cut an old car radio antenna for correct length small OD spacers.
Connect the new board assembly to the car.
Engine should start.
A small "key" wng light shows you're AOK. (and according to your manual it's thus OK to drive to your Nissan dealer... (if you must !))
Failure to start ? Maybe you had another problem? But see below.

Since the microswitch contacts no longer slide there should be no more contact arcing to induce "silicon" residue preventing contact.
"Excess oil", "wrong type of oil" or resin (glue) deterioration are known for silicon deposits on switch contacts. Nissan have a 2.3 million recall for this problem on safety related switchgear. Not learning ?

Panasonic make the microswitches, not the locks. Panasonic tech info actually warns of grease fouling! (But you'll find plenty of grease).

Gently exercising the microswitches should move the internal sliding contact area enough to remove accumulated residue from the normal switch contacts position: which you change anyhow at 1.8-2.2mm.

Alternatively cut off the top of the microswitches and solder the "tit" contacts to the central contacts of each microswitch respectively.

Soldering the tags at the circuit board will be no use unless the
microswitches are held pressed...or are cut to disconnect them internally.

Consult 3 together with the service manual will give good indication as to whether it is the lock at fault rather than ECU/ BDM problems. It will not tell you what was wrong with a lock.....just to renew it......Kenchan wrote that Series A, B or even C reportedly have "wrong oil" or similar problems. Nissan have kinda admitted just that.

The lock manufacturers are not Nissan, but sub-contractors unable by contract to act independently. A helpful representative there quietly confirmed by phone that the "sensors" (microswitches) were the problem.

Removal of the "free fall" cover and/or the one external screw, very cleverly locks you out of intended repairs to the lock itself and makes you buy a newie. [500 USD (or 1477 EUR in Europe)].
To solve that: E-mail me with your name, chassis number and lock info, plus your entire acceptance of risk, and agreement to confidentiality.

The actual circuit board originates from 2007 GTRs (aka "D52E" in Nissan-speak, probably printed on the board).

Fritz
And I still need to know, on VVEL relays, where they were made (hard to see) and the number written below that: not the part number.