Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

BigT · 03-01-2012, 04:24 PM

I've run two diff catch setup's in my old turbo mitsubishi's.

First, I ran a ventilated catchcan. While this seamed to work, motor would puke out more oil than I wanted it to which would cause that nice mayo build up in the can. While it wasn't a horrible thing, twice the can filled up too much and shot the little air filter into the air. Also, I ran no pvc with this setup as the intake manifold would injest air from the little filters during idle and sometimes cruise. This reaked havic when trying to get the car to idle with large injectors and cams.

Then, I built my own "recirculated" catch can. It was actualy a dual can setup and also ran no pcv valve. Instead, I ran one large line from the valve cover to a 150psi one- way air check-valve, then from that valve to a sealed can, and finally to the intake manifold. This helped with keeping solid vacuum in the valve cover during cruise and idle. The sealed can kept any contaminents (oil, mayo, boogers, etc) out of the intake manifold. The other sealed can was connected to the valve cover with two smaller lines, followed by a third fitting to the air intake. (not intake manifold)

During cruise and idle, the makeshift pvc system used vacuum from the intake manifold to draw out nasty vapors and fuel back into the intake manifold to re-burn. (just as a stock PCV setup would do, but better as it would not leak boost, more on that later) I never had a tuning issues while running this. A properly running engine should not produce enough "blow-by gases" to cause any problems.

When going WOT, the air intake tract would create a ton of vacuum. At this point the intake manifold would fill with boost and the 1-way check valve would close. The vacuum from the intake pipe would pull gases out of the valve cover.

One thing I noticed after using the dual can setup, the cans filled up much much slower. Was the system flawed? Absolutely not. What it did do was create enough vacuum and at the right times to "draw" or "pull" the nasty stuff out, instead of letting the engine "push" out anything and everything - (engine oil).

03-01-2012, 04:24 PM	#17 (permalink)
BigT Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 469 Drives: 98 2g DSM Rep Power: 13	I've run two diff catch setup's in my old turbo mitsubishi's. First, I ran a ventilated catchcan. While this seamed to work, motor would puke out more oil than I wanted it to which would cause that nice mayo build up in the can. While it wasn't a horrible thing, twice the can filled up too much and shot the little air filter into the air. Also, I ran no pvc with this setup as the intake manifold would injest air from the little filters during idle and sometimes cruise. This reaked havic when trying to get the car to idle with large injectors and cams. Then, I built my own "recirculated" catch can. It was actualy a dual can setup and also ran no pcv valve. Instead, I ran one large line from the valve cover to a 150psi one- way air check-valve, then from that valve to a sealed can, and finally to the intake manifold. This helped with keeping solid vacuum in the valve cover during cruise and idle. The sealed can kept any contaminents (oil, mayo, boogers, etc) out of the intake manifold. The other sealed can was connected to the valve cover with two smaller lines, followed by a third fitting to the air intake. (not intake manifold) During cruise and idle, the makeshift pvc system used vacuum from the intake manifold to draw out nasty vapors and fuel back into the intake manifold to re-burn. (just as a stock PCV setup would do, but better as it would not leak boost, more on that later) I never had a tuning issues while running this. A properly running engine should not produce enough "blow-by gases" to cause any problems. When going WOT, the air intake tract would create a ton of vacuum. At this point the intake manifold would fill with boost and the 1-way check valve would close. The vacuum from the intake pipe would pull gases out of the valve cover. One thing I noticed after using the dual can setup, the cans filled up much much slower. Was the system flawed? Absolutely not. What it did do was create enough vacuum and at the right times to "draw" or "pull" the nasty stuff out, instead of letting the engine "push" out anything and everything - (engine oil).