kenchan

P3208 Campaign Announcement
Campaign Bulletin NTB13-014
1-800-NISSAN1

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-w...ml#post2202876
UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!

Be advised that the new replacement lock is no guarantee it will eliminate the problem.
You must disable the lock by the fuse pull (Baer) or brown wire cut (Fritz) techniques while your lock is still functional.


Also if you want your reimbursement check if you have already conducted the repair... here is my experience.

i had my vin and receipt and everything ready to be faxed out per wat other members did successfully.

the lady told me i have to bring the car into the dealer for them to VERIFY my work before they can close the case and issue the reimbursement. i asked repetitively i already fixed the lock, car runs great as proof, i can send pictures, and i do not have plans to take the car to the dealer because i dont trust they will do the work with care, i dont trust their porters, i dont trust that they wont scratch the car, etc. etc.

she said, then tuff luck. kept repeating a canned messaged. no reimbursement coming.

- - -

The work is clumsy but not difficult. takes no more than 15min start to
finish. This part should be recalled by Nissan since it prevents starting the
car leaving you stranded. Same problem (same part) recalled on the GTR's.

1) Intro to the problem:
-What happens is when you try to start the car, without warning, the electric
lock fails to unlock sending error message to the BCM. The car will not start
in this case and will flash the Intelligent Key warning in the cluster.

- If you have 48700-JF00A or 48700-JF00B, chances are your lock will fail.

- It was confirmed Nissan was using RevB to Fall 2009. A Oct2009 build 2010 Nismo
was using RevB and had a faulty lock.

- Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure... but members are finding other
failures where the electric actuator was seized due to gear/shaft assembly malfunction.

- A member with a 40th 370Z with Jan 2010 build also fell victim on 1/19/2012..
He took a snap for us and verified that his lock is RevC. which means if his lock
suffered the same issue as the RevA and B, GTR's with the recalled locks that used RevC
could fail again. We will not know for sure though as it could have failed for another
isolated reason. Let's just hope this was an isolated incident.

- Nissan stopped using these locks on the 2012 Z's entirely, confirmed by a member
who looked on her car for us... which is not very convincing for those of us stuck with
the 'old' system. another member confirmed he could turn the steering L/R by hand
pushing on the tires while the front end is off the ground, car turned off....so there is
no substitute mechanism on the 3/2011 build to present.

2) Where to look for your steering lock revision:
- You can look under the steering column and see which revision your car has
(details where and what to look for, see DIY below)


- Your car's build date is located on the driver side door jam label.
- If you are currently stranded, scroll all the way to the bottom of the DIY for
temporary remedies to try.


3) How do I know if my steering lock is working?
- The motorized winding noise you hear when you push your starter-button is
your steering lock unlocking. You dont even need to start the car. Just push
your starter-button once to ACC. You hear a wind up noise from under the
steering column. That's the steering lock unlocking itself.

- You can also hear it when you shut down the car. Without starting the car
continue to push the starter-button twice to turn off. You will hear a winding
noise again.

Note: The steering-lock locks independently to the door locks so even if you
don't lock the doors the steering-lock functions.

4) DIY:

From here forward, do this at your own risk! Information and how-to is to
the best of my knowledge.


The replacement part is (revD and E): 48700-JF00D or 48700-JF00E.
If you can, get the JF00D or JF00E as there is uncertainty on the RevC's reliability.
Price is about $500 each.

This is RevC:



while this might be a $500 part, it could cost me WAAAY more repairing/replacing
other parts from the towing and while sitting at the dealership waiting for the part
to come in. dont have time to be worrying about that.


Security screws (2pcs per set): 48703-06F0A (i used metric fastners
instead for easy removal next time... hope not).

here are tools i used. angled needle nosed pliers, flashlight, and a socket
for my replacement screws.



the key here is the angled needle nosed pliers. you need it to grab hold of
the security screw on the factory unit (2pcs) to remove. there is no hex or
phillip head.



stick your head under the steering column and look upwards for the steering
lock. the bottom part of the lock looks like this... it's actually in your face if
you take a good look with a flashlight.



remove the 2 round headed screws using the needle nosed angled pliers.
it's not torqued in all that tight, but it takes some effort to loosen. once
you get one of the 2 off, you can giggle the steering lock with your hand
to make the 2nd screw removal easier.



Then unclip the hardness. The tab is on the top side and easy to unlatch.

here is what it looks outside the car...The greasy one is from factory. Mine
is still working so I will leave this in my trunk for now as backup.

(The one i saw in the GTR forum which failed was shaped a little differently at the
top of the steering lock. The werd is the one that came off my car with RevB is
shaped the same way as the RevC aka revised lock). I am not sure if there is a
sub-revision within RevB or not, but watever... until Nissan explains this i didnt
feel like taking my chances or wasting my time worrying about this known problem).

Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure so external appearance doesn't
seem to matter).



since my car's a hobby car and security isn't really an issue, i used 2 metric
bolts when putting it back together. I recommend you buy the security bolts
and see for yourself the length and width you need to buy if you decide to get
different screws.

The top screw is the Nissan security screw (the hex breaks off when
torqued). The bottom one is a regular metric screw i had in my screw
bin.



to put back together do everything in reverse.

here's a finished pict with my regular metric fastners. this will make it real easy to remove next time.





- - - CREDITS - - -

btw, i want to thank DAVIN for his DIY at the GTR forum. i looked at his DIY on his GTR and noticed how easy the fix was.... on the Z it's even easier since no internal bits to remove. RevC was used on the GTR's recall as "good" parts.

also want to thank Mwagner07 for posting the datecodes below.


Also special thanks to Mike below for the NHTSA claims link:

Also special thanks to Z_Girl for verifying that the 2012's do not have this type steering lock.

Per yellogixxer, he could turn his late 2011's steering L/R off the ground while engine is off...
which means nissan used no steering lock mechanism on his car.


Per Vince on his thread, 3/11 build to current shows no steering lock in the parts list.
good find, vince! Steering Lock Elimination

Special thanks to AWX Z34 for sending me info on his findings when he opened up his broken RevB:

He is the first one that I know that successfully FIXED his broken RevB steering lock!! Good job AWX Z34!!



special thanks to KORRUPT for posting up picts of the gut of the steering lock in this thread (post #374)!

Picts by KORRUPT, used with permission




















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-- TEMPORARY POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO TRY IF YOU ARE STRANDED --

1) Try the edmunds technique.... Turn the car off completely. Unlock your steering column (the lever under the steering) and abruptly move the steering wheel all the way up and down several times while hitting the push-start button once to ACC. If you hear a winding nose your steering-lock is free and should start the car...continue starting the car. If you dont hear it, re-try.

2) Try the tapping technique (if you want to call it that).... Turn the car off. get under your steering column, locate your steering lock, tap at the steering lock itself GENTLY with a small hammer or plastic mallet...while you press the start button once. or even use one of your metal temporary tools in the trunk. If you hear a winding noise coming from the steering-lock it is free. You should be able to start the car. Continue to start the car. If you don't hear the noise continue tapping it and cycle through the starter button ACC/ON/OFF a few times slowly.

3) Try unplugging the steering lock harness and tap at the steering lock gently, plug it back in and try #2) above.