I asked the mechanic the same question while I demonstrated the problem to him (they couldn't reproduce it on their own, but with my own confident right foot I had little trouble). He mumbled something about the friction surfaces probably being worn away, which would seem to make sense. The oil level apparently was ok, didnt check it myself but thatd be a hard thing to measure wrong.
So rotors can get warped JUST from getting too hot? I thought it was only when not cooled down properly after sessions. And
afaik these rotors are only a couple of pounds lighter as a result of their lighter center hats. So no real loss of heat absorbing mass.
I'm at a loss with the brake issue. As far as I know those rotors
were (
) pretty damn good... so what now? I buy a more expensive pair and kill them too? I cant afford that. Why is this such a big issue, I know for a fact there were plenty of cars out there with no brake ducting that were braking harder than me with no probs. I did deposit a not insignificant amount of brake pad onto the rotors in a somewhat uneven fashion i believe... could that have led to less cooling on the more covered parts of the rotors and hence a better pad would solve the problem? Was running Endless MX72 pads.
They quoted me about 500 bucks for the install on a new diff. Looking at the Quaife, maybe Carbonetics, couldnt care less about a clunk when it locks and takes only about 10 mins of work and 15 mins of waiting to swap out the fluid , cars are big mechanical beasts and make mechanical sounds, I like variety, tranny/diff whine (when not indicating a problem), SC whine, all great. But itl be a few weeks before I really have the money to get it ordered and installed if i go that route. By the way my car musta got hungry on the track because it ate a whole quart of its 5w30 Redline oil, which based on Redlines good NOACK rating really suprises me.
Any progress with your issue SPOHN?