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crwallace1 · 11-29-2011, 07:15 PM

I installed the Z1 kit with the 25 row Setrab and the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, and experienced the same low oil temp issues reported elsewhere here. So I had to build a blocker, and it had to be easy to install and remove and not require removing the the lower engine bay cover each time I wanted to unblock the cooler.
I bought a piece of scrap coroplast, corrugated plastic commonly used for lawn signs. As such it is easily sourced at any sign shop. I cut the piece the same size as the oil cooler and drilled a hole in each corner. I put a #8 by 1/2" bolt through each hole and fastened with a nylon locknut.
I ordered four high temp neodymium 1/2 x 1/8" magnets (N42SH) from kjmagnetics.com, and glued one of these to each corner of the oil cooler face using Gorilla glue. It remains slightly elastic when cured, which seemed important since the aluminum cooler and iron magnets would expand and contract somewhat differently.
So my blocker attaches magnetically to the cooler, and to remove and install all I have to do is remove the upper radiator airflow guide and reach in and grab it, about a five minute job. I did have to remove the lower cover to do the initial installation, but that should be it.
So far it is working fine, and my freeway oil temp has gone from 160 to 210, where is was before I installed the cooler. I may cut a hole or two in the coroplast to allow some cooling airflow to fine tune my oil temp.
It seems crazy to spend big bucks on and oil cooler and then have to spend an afternoon to defeat it, but that seems like a good solution for a car that is a daily driver and track day participant.

11-29-2011, 07:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
crwallace1 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 3 Drives: 2011 370 M6 Rep Power: 14	Oil Cooler Blocker I installed the Z1 kit with the 25 row Setrab and the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, and experienced the same low oil temp issues reported elsewhere here. So I had to build a blocker, and it had to be easy to install and remove and not require removing the the lower engine bay cover each time I wanted to unblock the cooler. I bought a piece of scrap coroplast, corrugated plastic commonly used for lawn signs. As such it is easily sourced at any sign shop. I cut the piece the same size as the oil cooler and drilled a hole in each corner. I put a #8 by 1/2" bolt through each hole and fastened with a nylon locknut. I ordered four high temp neodymium 1/2 x 1/8" magnets (N42SH) from kjmagnetics.com, and glued one of these to each corner of the oil cooler face using Gorilla glue. It remains slightly elastic when cured, which seemed important since the aluminum cooler and iron magnets would expand and contract somewhat differently. So my blocker attaches magnetically to the cooler, and to remove and install all I have to do is remove the upper radiator airflow guide and reach in and grab it, about a five minute job. I did have to remove the lower cover to do the initial installation, but that should be it. So far it is working fine, and my freeway oil temp has gone from 160 to 210, where is was before I installed the cooler. I may cut a hole or two in the coroplast to allow some cooling airflow to fine tune my oil temp. It seems crazy to spend big bucks on and oil cooler and then have to spend an afternoon to defeat it, but that seems like a good solution for a car that is a daily driver and track day participant.