phunk

Just keep the front setup normal and focus on the rear. I havent looked into toe and its effects in drag racing.. I havent really considered it to be as significant of an issue as camber. I would just run as close to stock toe in the rear as possible unless I find a reason that it doesnt work out well after pulling out the camber. You need the entire tire to contact the pavement for maximum straight line traction. That would mean zero camber during weight transfer. When the rear squats, the camber is going to go more negative than how it sits flat. You want the camber to be as flat as you can get it. I wouldnt be surprised to hear if someone that only drag races their IRS car possible even runs very light positive camber so that it zeros out when the car squats.

I ran my 350z at i think around -1.5 camber and it helped a lot versus where it always was when I originally slammed the car on coilovers. That was on a 305 35 18 Toyo R888. With the 3.3FD the car was fully useable in 3rd. 2nd was usually good if I was on good pavement. 1st would spin a bit but it was controllable enough to be content by not quite flooring it hard in that gear. Plus the R888s *seemed* to accelerate better while spining than my RE11 which feel completely dead when they light up.

For my street tires on the 370z I am going to replace the 305 30 19 RE11s with the Toyo R888. I think that will help quite a bit already. For my 18x12 wheels that will just be for drag racing, I will put on a 335 or 345 drag radial. Still contemplating fitment and how large I want to try and fit. I have my eyes on 3 different tires and will settle on one soon. When I have the 18x12s on, I will probably run stock suspension in the front and rear with all stock alignment specs except little to no negative camber in the rear. I think that combo should make the car rather useable for drag racing... for sure at least with stock bottom end power. I am hoping it will work for me even with higher numbers on a built bottom end.

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