I used a to have an EG hatch, sleeved h22 with sc61. it was 416fwhp at around 15 psi with 93 octane... that was about 6 years ago.
power delivery is good. the Z is a low 13 second car before its turbos even start spinning... so the transition into power is not as extreme. its not laggy at all, the transition is very quick. tire spin is an issue. if you focus on proper wheel and tire configuration you can put the power to the ground. im not sure what the wastegate springs that come in the kit are, i think they are 5psi. i changed my wastegate setup. I think I put in some 5 or 5.5psi in my wastegates too. At that boost, I can hook up no problem at all. So if you setup boost by gear you will be in good shape for traction...
although I would much rather make the car hook up low gears with all my boost, which is one of my next efforts.
The race logic is an effective unit, but I would never put it on my car. the factory VDC is very good if I am ever worried I might be pushing it too hard in the twisties on the street and I want a little backup help, I turn it back on and it does its job. the Race logics advantage is that it is less intrusive when it engages under full throttle, I have used it before, its very smooth. But, why invest into holding back all the HP you just paid good money for? Instead, invest that money into making your car hook up and leave a little on the side for when your R compound tires wear out to pay for the next set or 2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by awkwardturtle
Hey phunk,
maybe you can answer some of my questions since this build thread is exactly the direction I want to move in, and you seem extremely knowledgeable on this stuff.
How is the power delivery of this kit? I can't seem to find which turbos greddy uses for this kit - is one turbo small for responsiveness, and the other large for power? Or are they both the same? I ask because I drive a turbo'd honda civic right now, and I absolutely _HATE_ the power delivery of it. Here's a printoff of my last buttdyno (in black, red line is what I'd like in a car).
My car is essentially a light-switch car. It's slow, slow, slow.. then at 4k the turbo snaps in and it instantly doubles in horsepower. It's not a fun delivery of power, and it just results in wheelspin. Is a TT'd Z any smoother, or does it have the same effect? I would suspect it's a bit smoother being a larger motor that can get the turbos spinning sooner, but who knows. I wasn't expecting this kind of on/off power when I bought the kit, but I can only blame myself for not doing a bit more research.
Also, what's the WG pressure on that kit? I'm wondering how effective boost by gear would be on these cars? Another thing I really hate about my car is I effectively got rid of 1st and 2nd gear - they're nothing but spin gears. I really miss having the ability to romp around town in my car, as it's only a highway beast now. I'd imagine if this kit had a very small WG spring in it (3-4 psi?), you could just run that in 1st and progressively amp it up from there?
Thirdly, any input/experience with that racelogic traction unit? I think if I do get a Z and go this route, which is the most likely choice at this point in time, I want to run a consistent ~500 rwhp, but I'd like to have traction when doing so. To me, that's worth the 2+ grand the traction unit costs, but only if it's actually effective.
Thanks for any help  If it's of any consolation for the long post you just read, if I do go this route, I would feel most comfortable making the 5 hr trek to Chicago to have you install/tune it over what I have available here. |