Quote:
Originally Posted by wstar
As discussed recently elsewhere, be sure you're doing something to get up to 220-ish on a very regular basis. Otherwise the condensation water in your engine doesn't boil off. Instead it mixes with the oil and the net effect is to turn the oil acidic prematurely.
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I wouldn't really worry about this... the oil lasts 3 months max and generally gets heavier as it wears so even if water somehow enters the pan it isn't going to thin the oil too bad.
Also with the spring, the point I was trying to make was buying a 200 deg spring vs a 180 won't change anything... if you can't get to 180 where the original spring allows for full flow then a 200 will certainly not help. If you were trying to keep your oil at say 200 when it was consistently at 180 then that would be a dif story. At 160 both springs will just keep the thermostatic plate partially open.
It's simple... get a smaller cooler or block off plate. That is all that you can do to get your temps up to the proper place if you're not hitting High 100s.
Also if I ran 200-220 stock I would never have bought the cooler... I was idling at 220 and hitting 240-260 under some increased load. Never limped but didn't want to risk it. My tune took an extra hour while they let the engine cool off... not idea.