Quote:
Originally Posted by hiz-n-herz
You need to match the impedance of the speakers to the impedance of the amplifier that is powering them. Most after-market speakers are 4-ohm. Some subs are 3.2 ohms and even 2 ohms. The lower the impedance (ohms), the less resistance the amp sees through the speakers and the closer to a direct short you get. Good aftermarket amps can handle 2-ohms with no problems - some even 1-ohm.
Many OEM systems have amps and speakers operating at different impedances - usually higher than 4-ohms. so you should know the impedance ratings of the bose speakers and subs if you plan on only replacing them.
Usually no one knows what impedance the OEM systems are workign at and if you plug in aftermarkey speakers, the bose amp could get fried quickly.
Some folks replace them amp and subs both - there are aftermarket converters that convert the pre-amp signal from the OEM head unit to a proper voltage for the after-market amps and then you use your aftermarket speakers.
pac-audio makes such converters as do many others.
good luck...
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One thing you didn't mention is that with solid state amplifiers (99.999% of car audio amps, unless you get tube...) can run with higher impedances (ohms), they just don't put out as much power.
So, if you have 8 ohm door speakers, and your amp is rated for 100w @ 4ohm, you'll probably get about 60-70w at 8ohm.
The important thing to remember is to not go BELOW what the amp can handle - run a 2ohm load on a 4ohm amp. That will make your amp unhappy, and could burn it up (overload)...