Quote:
Originally Posted by NIZMOZ
Just a hint for O2s that won't come out easy. Heat up the bung that is welded on the exhaust where the O2 is with a torch till it gets hot maybe even slightly red, then turn the o2 sensor out. Learned that from a ASE Certified mechanic friend that put my Berks in and the driver side O2 got stuck coming out. Did that and it turned out with ease.
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Tried heating the 02 base with a butane torch and two things happened: I chickened out as I don't like to singe anything and the other is, it didn't help. Was very disappointed the muffler shop didn't try and heat it with their gas torches before they took it out as it sure stripped the threads.
Update...... Removed the JIC Y-pipe, took the cats off, installed new crush header/cats gaskets and installed the Stillen Y-pipe. Think a big trick is to tighten the top two bolts first on the cats/exhaust manifold to create more of an upward angle and do the bottom bolt last. I tightened the dog poop out of the top ones and snugged firmly the bottom ones.
Loosely fitted everything, jacked the exhaust up and retightened everything. There is more clearance but the washers will remain as I just don't think it will clear completely w/o them. Drive the car a bit to see if the exhaust sags and make a decision later but there was definite marks where it rubbed in only 18 miles.
Also.....thanks for the heads up on the 1168 code. My OBD II code reader said MAF but it's a general code reader and not Nissan specific.