ImportConvert

0-500 miles = no constant speed, no WOT, and no over 4000rpm, and no speed over 55mph, vary rpm and speed within these parameters.
5-1500 miles = no HPDE's.

This is from your owner's manual. However, at Bowling Green, my car was driven at 80mph and over 4000 rpm just on the alignment machine.

The real key is to not shock the driveline, be gentle with the brakes and clutch, and don't go thrashing the motor right from the get-go, although one of the engine-builders I spoke with who is on the forum says the break-in is mainly for the driveline and not the engine.

What I did with mine was the same as the owners manual, except over 500 miles I gradually worked up from about 3K rpm to 6K rpm or so, and I did not abide the 55mph for fear of being rear-ended.

I varied load on the driveline, did NOT shift it hard or launch the car, and let the engine engine-brake down from about 3500-4000rpm or so when I was slowing down.

Currently with 2200 miles on the car, the driveline is nice and quiet, and the engine uses NO oil. For the first road-trip (varying load, speed, rpm, running it up and down the rpm band as described) it dirtied up the exhaust tips pretty well. Also, I did not check oil level originally as I should, but it was 1/2 quart low compared to where it is now after the oil change at 500 miles (I did this on my own, not per manual). The exhaust now does not get dirty, and it has used NO! oil in over 1500 miles since the oil change.

I am very happy with what I did, how I did it, and the engine-builder I talked to seems to agree.

*WIth your dry-sump, make sure you check the oil at the same TEMPERATURE (oil temp) and the same TIME after shutting the car off (5-15 minutes, I use 5 minutes). Checking it with just a 30* difference in oil-temp is equal to about 1/3 quart difference in levels on the oil-stick. This is a sensitive procedure to get an accurate reading. I freaked out and learned the hard way,lol.

As to a radar-detector, I know I am trying to sell you (at a loss) my MirrorTap hardwire unit for a Valentine 1, but as good advice from me to you, my Dashtronix was worth the money and the install is flawless. If you want to save the money though and want a V1, I'm here for ya on the wire-tap setup if you want it. I am in LA and will cross-ship with you and depending on where you are in Texes you should get it the next day or thereabouts.

The reason I recommend the Dashtronix is that the little dots on a V1 are hard to tell what band is hitting you, especially at night, and the whole thing just lights up your car and is very uncool imo how conspicuous it is. The Dashtronix uses your HUD and/or your DIC to display warnings and the V1 stays dark. The Dashtronix is also a way to hardwire the detector flawlessly.