First off, you've just watched 1 hour and 20 minutes worth of videos. You are overwhelmed with information overload. You need to stop, take a breath and
watch these videos again, as well as the other ones below the first 10. There is no possible way that you are going to retain all of the information that you've just seen, nor does it all make sense to you at this point. The more you watch the videos, the more clear this will become. Also, the more you watch the videos, the simplier this will all be.
The main reason that I used Adam's in these videos is not only because they work, it's because they are also the easiest product line to use and understand. Thus, you need to take a break, grab a sandwich and watch them again. You will learn a lot more the second time around. Now let's address your post directly.
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Originally Posted by Arc
Well, I got my new 370Z last week, and after about 120+ miles, it has a scratch on the hood and two dust particle paint chips. I don't know what's the the easiest way to fix the tiny paint chips or if I should just ignore it.
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Google Langka and Dr. Colorchip. They both address the easiest way to repair paint chips. Either product will work. You have some reading to do. As for the scratch, the process you see in my paint correction videos (the ones below the first 10), is how you deal with scratches and swirls, as well as haze and dullness.
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Originally Posted by Arc
Also the car got wet when I brought it home, so I just grabbed some towels and dried it off. I didn't know about what type of towels to use, so you can imagine what I just did without knowing it. Now I have some swirls to deal with.
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Again, that second set of videos deal with this issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
I've watched the 10 videos and they're very helpful but I do have some questions.
1. The Porter Cable and the foam pads on the Adam's site should all be compatible right? The Porter Cable and the foam pads are listed with different sizes.
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The pads listed on the Adam's site come in 2 sizes.
The 4" pads, which are used to get into very tight areas and also
the larger pads, which are used to buff the rest of the car. Although the smaller pads come in handy, guess which ones you need to do most of the car? That's right, the bigger pads. Now your choice just got easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
2. If I were to polish and seal, I would need to tape off the car lines and glass?
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That is not necessary at all. If you get polish somewhere that you shouldn't have, just wipe it off.
It will not damage anything. Just don't expect it to come off easy if you leave it on for 3 months while your car bakes in the sun. Address the problem immediately.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
How would I tape the lines? Like what would taping the lines look like exactly without covering the area I want to work on?
What kind of tape can I use that won't scratch the protected surfaces and won't leave any residue?
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Now you know that taping is not necessary. However, if you do decide to tape off something (like an emblem), blue painter's tape is what you want to use. It comes in various widths, and is safe for all finishes. By the way, buffing over your emblems will tear up your pads so don't do that and avoid buffing up against any sharp edges. That will rip chunks out of your pads also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
3. To keep the Porter Cable from overheating, I'd need an extension cable that is twice as thick as the Porter Cable's cord? Is that right? I didn't understand what you meant in the video.
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Then maybe you will understand Porter-Cable's chart on cord lengths.
There it is in black and white. You look at the length of the cord you need to run and the chart tells you exactly what gauge it should be. These are the
minimum gauge lengths. You can always use a larger gauge than what they recommend,
but definitely not smaller.. Simple.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
I'll need to get a foam gun before I start this process myself. I'll look on Amazon.com for one.
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You can also check with
these Adam's dealers to see if any of them have one also. There may be one listed in your state.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
I have access to two practice vehicles before I go full on my 370Z, so I'll test it on those two first.
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Good idea, although you have nothing to worry about concerning the PC. How do I know this?
Watch these two videos. They will easily put your mind at ease concerning the PC.
Another piece of advice that you want to adhere to. Pick a 2' by 2' spot on the car you want to practice on. Do the complete process on that spot. See if you can get the results you want in that one spot. If you can't, ask questions and keep practicing.
If you can't get one spot right, then you won't get the rest of the car right. Thus, you don't want to apply a crappy technique to the entire car until you have an effective technique. Using a ineffective technique does nothing but waste product, time and you end up frustrated with the outcome. So learn the process in one spot, and then apply what you've learned to the entire car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc
I'm about to make my order, as soon as I find a foam gun and some masking tape. This process is looking more involved and complicated somewhat than I expected. Now I need a leaf blower to air dry it too. So much to do.
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You shouldn't look at it as being complicated, you should look at each part of the process as, "Wow, that makes sense! Why wasn't I already doing this?" If that is not the way you see the entire process, then you haven't watched the videos enough times. Once you do trust me, the process will make a ton of sense.