Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

ZForce · 04-16-2011, 06:24 PM

Update: I found my alignment printout out sheet and still have no access to scanner to post up, but here are the specs on the alignment before and after and with toe bolts and without. Again these are from my Eibach springs but it should give everyone an idea as to if they need a rear camber kit and/or upper control arms. It's true that Swift has a lower drop than Eibach and I will post up my alignment specs once the Swift springs are installed. So lets dive in with some numbers.

Fist off I want to point out that I was NOT wanting to get the alignment into to happy range of OEM as I was going with a certain setup that will maximize handeling. I have about 3-5k on the Eibachs with this alignment and very happy with handeling. I will be shooting for the same range with Swift. I am at the far end of the spectrum range but still within OEM specs, just not in the middle range.

Eibach springs
Rear Camber Arms NO TOE BOLT

Eibach drop is 0.9 Front and 0.8 Rear
compared to
Swift drop is 1.2 Front and 1.0 Rear.

Front OEM spec is 0.1 to -1.4

Fronts BEFORE
-1.2 & -1.5
Fronts AFTER
-1.2 & -1.4

Rear OEM spec is -1.2 to -2.2

Rear BEFORE
-2.8 & -2.0
Rear AFTER
-1.9 & -1.7

OEM spec for TOE
1.0 to 2.7

REAR TOE AFTER
1.3 & 1.2

The TOE BOLT WILL NOT BE NEEDED if you want camber to be within OEM spec and more towards one end of the range.

If you want the rear camber to be more close to ZERO (or anything more positive than -1.9) then you WILL NEED the TOE BOLT.

For my setup I wanted the rear camber to be within 0.3 difference from the fronts. For example the fronts set to -1.3 then rears will be set to -1.0 always wanting to more negative camber in the fronts than the rears.

Here are the numbers WITH TOE BOLT INSTALLED.

Front BEFORE
-1.3 & -1.6
Front AFTER
-1.3 & -1.6

Rear BEFORE
-1.9 &-1.8
Rear AFTER
-1.1 & -1.0

TOE Rear BEFORE
1.3 & 1.2
Toe Rear AFTER
1.9 & 1.5

With the toe bolt installed it opened up a more desirable camber range towards -0.0 that without the toe bolt we were stuck at -1.8 and could not get anymore positive camber (like -1.0).

Even though these alignment specs are from Eibach springs, it will prove that the rears are not far off (quess-timate) from Swifts alignment specs since there is only a -0.2 difference in drop from Eibach and Swift. This proves that most users will have the same results on the rear settings mentioned above and will have a choice depending on what rear camber setting they are trying to achieve.

Desired rear camber setting:

To stay within the mid range of OEM = NO TOE BOLT
To adjust down to the -1.0 range = NEED TOE BOLT

As far as the front setting mentioned above, these are not going to be same for this comparision because there is a 0.3 difference between Eibach and Swift. I cannot comment on this comparsion and only hope the Swifts do not set the negative camber out of the OEM range. As more posts come in from users we will be able to get a better idea.

Eibach drop = 0.9
Swift drop = 1.2

Now that you have read this lengthy post I have to admit, I wrote this as a reminder to myself for when and I will, loose the original alignment spec printout. Btw: the alignment rack used is a HUNTER brand.

If it helped any users, then I did not waste any cyberspace.

04-16-2011, 06:24 PM	#430 (permalink)
ZForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,359 Drives: 09 370Z Tour + Sport Rep Power: 21	To TOE or Not To TOE Update: I found my alignment printout out sheet and still have no access to scanner to post up, but here are the specs on the alignment before and after and with toe bolts and without. Again these are from my Eibach springs but it should give everyone an idea as to if they need a rear camber kit and/or upper control arms. It's true that Swift has a lower drop than Eibach and I will post up my alignment specs once the Swift springs are installed. So lets dive in with some numbers. Fist off I want to point out that I was NOT wanting to get the alignment into to happy range of OEM as I was going with a certain setup that will maximize handeling. I have about 3-5k on the Eibachs with this alignment and very happy with handeling. I will be shooting for the same range with Swift. I am at the far end of the spectrum range but still within OEM specs, just not in the middle range. Eibach springs Rear Camber Arms NO TOE BOLT Eibach drop is 0.9 Front and 0.8 Rear compared to Swift drop is 1.2 Front and 1.0 Rear. Front OEM spec is 0.1 to -1.4 Fronts BEFORE -1.2 & -1.5 Fronts AFTER -1.2 & -1.4 Rear OEM spec is -1.2 to -2.2 Rear BEFORE -2.8 & -2.0 Rear AFTER -1.9 & -1.7 OEM spec for TOE 1.0 to 2.7 REAR TOE AFTER 1.3 & 1.2 The TOE BOLT WILL NOT BE NEEDED if you want camber to be within OEM spec and more towards one end of the range. If you want the rear camber to be more close to ZERO (or anything more positive than -1.9) then you WILL NEED the TOE BOLT. For my setup I wanted the rear camber to be within 0.3 difference from the fronts. For example the fronts set to -1.3 then rears will be set to -1.0 always wanting to more negative camber in the fronts than the rears. Here are the numbers WITH TOE BOLT INSTALLED. Front BEFORE -1.3 & -1.6 Front AFTER -1.3 & -1.6 Rear BEFORE -1.9 &-1.8 Rear AFTER -1.1 & -1.0 TOE Rear BEFORE 1.3 & 1.2 Toe Rear AFTER 1.9 & 1.5 With the toe bolt installed it opened up a more desirable camber range towards -0.0 that without the toe bolt we were stuck at -1.8 and could not get anymore positive camber (like -1.0). Even though these alignment specs are from Eibach springs, it will prove that the rears are not far off (quess-timate) from Swifts alignment specs since there is only a -0.2 difference in drop from Eibach and Swift. This proves that most users will have the same results on the rear settings mentioned above and will have a choice depending on what rear camber setting they are trying to achieve. Desired rear camber setting: To stay within the mid range of OEM = NO TOE BOLT To adjust down to the -1.0 range = NEED TOE BOLT As far as the front setting mentioned above, these are not going to be same for this comparision because there is a 0.3 difference between Eibach and Swift. I cannot comment on this comparsion and only hope the Swifts do not set the negative camber out of the OEM range. As more posts come in from users we will be able to get a better idea. Eibach drop = 0.9 Swift drop = 1.2 Now that you have read this lengthy post I have to admit, I wrote this as a reminder to myself for when and I will, loose the original alignment spec printout. Btw: the alignment rack used is a HUNTER brand. If it helped any users, then I did not waste any cyberspace.