Thank you for taking the time to review my issues. Your videos are very useful and will have to watch them a few times before I get started on my work.
[QUOTE=Junkman2008;1044502]
Again, this is covered in the series you just watched and you even mentioned it earlier in your post. You clay when the baggie test shows that you need to clay. Not before, only after. The bag is the gauge that you use to determine when claying is necessary. If the bag shows that claying is NOT necessary, then you don't do it. The same is true in the opposite scenario. Use the gauge and react to the results that you get.
The gauge for polishing is your eyes. Polishing removes scratches and other damage from your paint. Thus, if you LOOK at your paint and see damage, then you need to polish. If there is no damage and your paint has no dullness to it, then you DON'T need to polish it. Use the gauge that is your eyes. Only you and whomever may be standing next to your can answer the question as to what needs to be done to your paint.
Can you clarify something for me.. as you stated, if I don't need to clay and if the paint is in good shape and has no damage - I don't need to polish, can you go straight the MSW? Or will you always have to FMP ( at a minimum and then MSW)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Sweet Z
What are your thoughts on quick spray waxes?
I would have to answer that on a case by case basis, after looking at what the product claims to do. If the product states that it will protect the car for 6 months and is made up of 50% water, then I would call BS. You have to be specific when asking a question like this because all products can't be painted with one brush.
I have some meguire's quik spray wax, that is applied to the car during the drying process, it hazes up and wipe off. I think I have done more damage to my DD car with not using the right products ( chinese MF towels) and creating swirl city.
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V-LED : ILLUM KICK PLATES : VENTURE SHIELD : H & R : K & N : GOODRIDGE SS BRAKE LINES : NISMO CBE
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