Quote:
Originally Posted by Shamu
Its interesting that you say that as my first run at SD NT I had no ABS Ice mode ISSUES, but after my co driver ran brakes were much warmer and then I got abs issue 2ND AND 3RD RUNS. I almost squirted the brake calipers and rotors. Wish I had tried that but I thought no heat wouldn't cause that!
My class I have more options than stock guys. Has anyone in stock tried throwing terrible pads on the rear? Thats how I used to balance my race car sometimes. If issue is truly wheel speed problem because rears are locking up too easily why not put the worst pads ever back there. Or if you can down grade to base model rear brake - I dont know is there a difference? For my car we are going with old 350 Z Brembo caliper and rotor which is smaller. You poor stock class guys cant do that.
Man and I feel for you stock guys on oil temps. even with GTM cooler on my car we were seeing 220 oil temps and we were spraying the cooler.
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It's definitely heat related. With good 5 minute spacing between runs it will usually only happen when braking near or at the end of a run. However at local events when we end up lapping closer to 2 minutes apart it will happen during every major braking event.
You should be able to just pull the ABS fuse in SP or disable it in some other way.
For me it's time to start playing with pads. I'm thinking hawk hps may be a good starting point as people are always criticizing their initial bite characteristics.
Oh and don't spray your brakes with water between runs unless you want to crack and/or warp your rotors instantly. And for engine temps we leave the engine running with the defrost cranked at full heat and the hood open to cool the car. We can usually keep it 220-240 with no cooler