Thread: Crossover Help
View Single Post
Old 06-26-2009, 02:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat
Car Audio Installer
 
bigaudiofanat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Magnolia DE
Posts: 8,342
Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x
Rep Power: 853
bigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond reputebigaudiofanat has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via AIM to bigaudiofanat Send a message via Yahoo to bigaudiofanat Send a message via Skype™ to bigaudiofanat
Default

I have been talking to my guys for the past 20 minutes if you do do it the way you are wanting to with those in line resistors than your sub will only see around 80-100 watts anyway no were near enough to move it well. I did not know that you were putting resistors in before the crossovers. But you are still going to be hurting that amp because it is not a class D so it was not made for a sub. You would turn your low pass on for the sub and the components you would leave at full range. What those resistors do is make you final load come out to be 4 ohms so your still not going to see much power. My suggestion would be bridge the amp for the components no rear speakers and a second amp from kicker for your sub,
__________________
Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know
Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com
Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below
https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 06-26-2009 at 02:41 PM.
bigaudiofanat is offline   Reply With Quote